Walking with Lambs

Waiting for 11 April
A inside perspective on the current situation in Venezuela

By Wild Goose

See also the later article by Wild Goose


The title of this piece is a play on the title of a story of a US cavalry officer, Major Dunbar, who in the aftermath of the civil war finds a new life living with a tribe of Indians. They named him Dances With Wolves. I retired after 33 years of walking with commercial wolves, a career in advertising around the world, and settled in a peaceful, edenic, bucolic, naive and good humoured Venezuela. They should have named me Dances With Lambs.

Shortly after me settling here, an ex-army Lt. Colonel Chavez, who had failed in leading a military coup against a perfectly legitimately elected, democratic government some years previously, was elected to the presidency. Within a year he had re-written the constitution and had himself re-elected, still on a roll of goodwill from a majority of those that bothered to vote. Once he was in real power, President Chavez revealed "The Revolution", a hitherto secret agenda to convert the country into a totalitarian, neo-Marxist state similar to that of Cuba and Libya. Watching what happened was like seeing lambs led to slaughter.

Corruption has grown at an incredible pace until it has become open pillage-with-impunity. Law and order has been stifled and replaced by political repression, the investigative police has evolved into a secret political police. Crime has doubled, and trebled. Most crimes go unsolved, most are not even investigated, and any crime with a political motivation is guaranteed to go unsolved. Not a single case of corruption has been tried. Sympathy with the terrorist rebels known as FARC in neighbouring Colombia is very real. It takes the form of physical support, to the point where FARC and ELN now openly operate inside Venezuela, often aided by the political police, and tens of thousands have been given Venezuelan identity cards. Drugs are shipped through and over the country with the token occasional dramatic bust set up for international consumption. The captured tonnage goes straight back into the chain.

The mass of the population in Venezuela today, divides up into a precise 18% who are doing well, one way or another, out of Chavez, or support him because they love to hear his guttersnipe, barrackroom, exaggerated tirades against the enemy of the day. Another 10% are "Chavistas Light", not really happy with him, but sort of still hoping he'll turn out OK. The rest are the lambs who allowed him to come to power by not bothering to vote in the various elections and referendums. Chavez was elected with an amazing 82% of votes cast... in the smallest turn outs in history. The political innocence of the lambs in the early years was amazing, and one could sense them drifting towards the slaughterhouse. But the lambs have not been slaughtered.

The easy way for bad people to come to power is for good people, the lambs, to say nothing. Gradually, a media initially supportive of Chavez became suspicious as corruption scandals emerged and were dismissed as opposition propaganda. After a series of very personal attacks against newspaper proprietors and the legitimacy of their parenthood, etc., the media became hostile,The church, initially supportive of claims to help the poor, became angry at being insulted, with cardinals being described as devils in soutanes. Sermons became openly critical of the government. Chavez is the kind of soldier who needs an enemy. It allows him to use war games terminology and extremist rhetoric. Us and them. For me or against me. (President Bush has used similar techniques in his speeches). Chavez systematically went through the entire society, creating enemies that he could rail against and blame for all the evils of the country. The small percentage of people who had been indifferent or against Chavez began to grow until it became a visible and vocal majority. The lambs began to take to the streets.

It was the political crimes, in particular assassination and murder, that provoked a new form of manifestation against the government here, the big march. To begin with, government supporters would have their marches on the same day and attempts to force clashes, so that the "oficialistas" could attack the peaceful opposition marches were rampant. We were in one of those marches, when a petition of nearly two million signatures was being taken in a truck to be delivered to the election controlling body headquarters. The truck continually broke down in the heat, and we found ourselves alongside it, with me helping to push the thing - along with twenty other fellows.

We were at the head of the march with the truck, two local mayors and the state governor who were running the protest, behind us were a couple of hundred thousand people. Just a few hundred metres from the building, the Chavistas attacked. They threw stones, bottles, lumps of concrete, and fired pistols. At that time, the metropolitan police was still armed and active and fought off the attackers with tear gas and shotguns firing rubber pellets. Eventually we pushed the truck into the building entrance, our faces wrapped in vinegar-soaked towels, eyes running, chests heaving with strain and pain, stumbling over broken bottles and shotgun cartridge cases, ducking at every shot. It was only afterwards that we realized what we'd been through. We'd known no fear at the time. The adrenaline rush must have been incredible. With tears of pride, aided by the tear gas, we all sang the national anthem and another hymn of joy as the boxes of signatures were unloaded.

Subsequently, the metropolitan police were disarmed and their vehicles have recently been impounded by the Guardia Nacional, and they have become impotent. On the odd occasion now, when unarmed policemen attempt an arrest, they are shot down. The GN, who were supposed to guarantee the peace more efficiently than the PM are absent everywhere except where there is an oficialista building to protect. Murders are in three figures every weekend. The GN do turn out to protect demonstrations by Chavistas.

The coalition of opposition groups, from the left wing Red Flag party, through the Confederation of Labour Unions to the right wing Federation of Chambers of Commerce decided on a national strike. This lasted two whole months and effectively washed out Christmas completely. Early on in the strike, most of the staff, from managers to field workers, from tanker ships captains to secretaries at the state-owned petroleum company also came out on strike. This really hurt the government and continues to do so. The strike was to protest the extraordinary incompetence of the government and demand the resignation of President Chavez.
It was during the strike that the marches of the lambs reached their zenith. One march, titled "The Taking of Caracas" brought at least one and a half million people onto the streets, possibly many more, but that is the lowest figure given. It was certainly the greatest manifestation the country had ever seen, and possibly the biggest peaceful march ever, anywhere, all the more incredible since there was no transport, everybody walked there. And the Chavistas had blocked the roads into Caracas to prevent people coming in from the country. Chavez claimed the march was a fake, with the tv films using computer tricks to make it seem as if the few thousand there were many more.

A month or two later, the Chavistas attempted a "Re-taking of Caracas" and brought people in from the country in buses and trucks, all paid allowances and given food and drink. All public employees in Carcas were ordered to attend on pain of firing. There were at least 150,000 of them, maybe 180,000. Chavista claims of attendance ranged from two to four million people were there. But it was a failure by any standards, and was the last public appearance of the Chavistas of this kind. From then on they have concentrated on ambushes. In the first three months of this year there have been 54 armed attacks by Chavista groups, during which innocent and unarmed peaceful marchers have been wounded or killed. The presence of the GN ensured that there were no counter-attacks against the attackers. Films and photos of shooters in the press never result in any arrests, not even investigations. All are described by the government, as criminal opposition provocations .

But what of the marches themselves? They are a totally unique form of protest expression. First there are the clothes. People wear shirts and blouses and tee-shirts, all made of national flag material. Some of the younger women wear startlingly original - and somewhat daring by northern standards - outfits that are just amazing. Hats of every conceivable kind, from standard peaked caps to tri-corn court jester affairs all in the tricolor yellow, blue with the seven white stars, and red. Everybody carries and regularly waves, a flag of one size or another. Mine is about one by two metres and is held up by a length of bamboo from my garden. The effect of the body of people is a staggering river of bright yellow, blue and red.

The mood in these marches is amazing. There is always an air of expectancy and quiet excitement. There are people carrying drums and triangle, whistles and blocks. They tap, bang and blow in latin rhythms, swing their hips as they walk, (walk? Many are actually doing dance steps. Everything is salsa-fied). They sing songs ranging from Beethoven's song of joy, through Lennon to pure latin songs of protest, love and peace. The national anthem, probably the most moving and beautiful anthem after the Marseillese, gets an airing regularly. These lambs are astonishing. Their overall exuding of goodwill is punctuated regularly by chants like (translated) "This government will fall", "Chavez out!" and many witty rhyming couplets that always collapse with the giggles, like "Above, below, Chavez go to hell!" (Arriba! Abajo! Chavez p'al carajo!) yet the overall atmosphere of goodwill and camaraderie somehow defuses the incendiary potential of these efforts. The inference I draw from it all, is that people feel they are showing, by simply showing themselves to be united and, well by simply being there, they are showing the world that Chavez is rejected by the majority of Venezuelans.

I have found myself dancing with these lambs as they gambol and dance along. Dancing? As an anglo-saxon, I have about as much latin tempo in me as I have ability to speak Chinese. But it is kind of liberating. Tears have come to my eyes on several occasions at the sheer decent exhuberance and innocent hope these lambs had, and still have, after the virtual destruction of their country.

Chavez is fond of portraying the opposition as a minority of wealthy, middle class, privileged people who are that way thanks to their oppression and exploitation of the poor. Walking in one of these marches and it is very clear indeed that the marchers represent socio-economic classes BC and, very definitely D. Class A is never numerous in any society, but in a small village-like society of Caracas, they are all known, and they are not among the marchers. The socio-economic Es are out in the marginal areas in the slums on the edge of the city and in the rural areas. They don't march with us - but few of them march for Chavez either. The marchers are usually a statistical representation of a solid 70% of the population that is against Chavez. And in a country that has 80% living at or below poverty level, you don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out the significance of that.

The strike failed. Incredibly, the government was still there after two months. It proved that Venezuela is essentially ungovernable, and Chavez stayed in power, because the country is, essentially, not being governed. This is a lawless, anarchic and chaotic state that is functioning as well as it does because people simply get on with what they can. And the majority of people are kind and decent. People are living on their savings - from under the mattress. Bank accounts and the banking system has become discredited and is not trusted any more. Barter is real.

But there is fear. The fear is growing and is palpable. Marches have been cancelled again and again because the spies phone through that ambushes have been laid. Violence and the threat of it is working for the Chavistas. The government lies so consistently and obviously that nothing, but nothing it says is believed by the people. Chavez retaliated against the opposition by suspending sales of the dollar. And with 70% of the goods and produce sold in this country being imported, that has had - in two months - far greater damage than the two-month strike. The killers who were filmed shooting into the marchers last April 11th have now been released from custody and hailed as heroes of the revolution. They were never tried.

The hope now is that there will be a referendum in August that will confirm Chavez as president, or cause his resignation. Few believe the government will allow it to happen. It is a sort of mythic date in the future that is enabling everybody to live with today. Meanwhile, the anniversary of the April 11th march will be celebrated by another march. The lambs are nervous and restless, and rather despondent. The economic state of the country is genuinely disastrous, with bankruptcies, closures, suicides and crime all on the increase. Nobody is sure how the march will be, except that the Chavistas are threatening to attack and destroy it.

How will the lambs behave on April 11th? Will they turn out in their hundreds of thousands? If they do, will they dance again? Or will it be a despondent, silent march with many black flags and single drumbeats being the only music? Or will it be cancelled, as so many have been since the violence of the Chavistas became government-protected?

Wild Goose
March 2003